Crochet Infinity Scarf Free Pattern

Slanted Shell Cowl

Hello! It is starting to get cold in Oklahoma and the leaves are just beginning to change.

 For this post I am making a crocheted cowl that I have sold to during the winter months. It is an easy project and the stitch looks fancy. Lion Brand Heartland Yarn works well for this project. I love how the colors are named after natural recreational sites in America. There are lots of colors to choose from.

This scarf is a cowl and doesn't wrap twice around the neck. I will link patterns that make the scarf longer.

This pattern is a common crochet pattern. The way that I have modified it is by changing the number of chains made when turning your work. This makes the scarf present better as a cowl. The sides lay flatter. Normally the slanted this stitch has a chain 3 turning chain. I changed it to a chain 4.
I learned how to make a straight edge on this scarf for sewing the edges together  from a  ravelry.com post that I will link below. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/spring-petals-scarf 

I am also going to link another blog with a crazy shell infinity scarf. I found it when trying to search for the link above. 
http://kwidcreations.blogspot.com/2015/09/crazy-shell-infinity-scarf.html?m=1

The Slanted Shell Cowl

 1 Skein Lion Brand Heartland Yarn in the color Redwood

I hook for main project

J hook for making the starting chain

Pairs of scissors

Tapestry needle

Gauge 4X4” 14 stitches

Go up a hook size if you crochet tightly. I tend to crochet more loosely.

Lion brand Heartland Yarn in Redwood

Ch 29 [sets of 4 + 5 on the end]

Do not make first row in the back bump.

Row 1: 3 Dc in the  5th the hook, skip the next 3 ch,1sc in the next ch,*ch 3, 3 DC in the same ch as the last sc, skip 3 ch, 1 sc in the next ch, repeat from* , ending with, 1 sc in the last ch, turn

The solid black chains represented in the picture above are where your SC in Row 1 should be placed. With the exception of the first two solid black chains on the left.

The first DC in Row 1 should be in the second solid black chain on the left.

Row 2: Ch4, 3 DC in first ch, skip [ 1sc,3dc] 1 sc in ch space * ch3, 3dc in the same ch 3 space *ch 3, 3dc in the same ch 3 space as last sc, work last sc in top of the ch 4 of the turning chain from the previous row.

Row 3: Repeat row two until scarf reaches 32 inches in length.

Final Row: Ch3, 3 HDC in the first sc * sc in the ch3 space,3hdc int eh first dc, repeat from *sc in last ch4 sp

Two ways to bind ends:

1^st way Fasten off yarn and leave a 14 inch tail for sewing the ends together using a whip stitch. On the edge you will go in the tops of the ch4’s  on the sides.

Fold the scarf in half with end facing each other.

2cond way bind the ends together using a slip stitch by inserting your hook through the stitches on either side of the scarf and making a slip stitch. Slip stitch all the way across and then fasten off yarn.

Weave in the ends

If you still feel like the sides are bunching too much use a Ch-5 on the turning chains of your next scarf.

If you have a question, please feel free to ask. If you want to use this scarf as a teaching example please reference my blog. I would love my patterns to be used as a teaching source.

Autumn Colors Crocheted Mug Rug- Free Pattern

This pattern is a beginner level tapestry crochet pattern.

This Mug-Rug can be used for drinking a cup of fall flavored tea. There is room for a mug and a spoon.

I will be adding more example photos later.

1 Ball Red Cotton Dishrag Yarn

1 Ball Bright Orange Dishrag Yarn

1 Ball Turquoise Dishrag Yarn

(I used Lily Sugar ‘N Cream Yarn in Hot Orange, Red and Mod Blue for the pictured project)
There will be enough yarn left for at least one more mug-rug.

1 Size H crochet Hook  

1 Size I crochet Hook(optional)
Pair of Scissors

Leave a 6-inch tail when you fasten off
1 Tapestry Needle

The project is 7 by 10 inches after the edging  or

6 1/2 by 9 1/2 inches without the edging

Color A- Red
Color B- Orange
Color C- Turquoise

Take the color A yarn, make a slipknot and insert your Size I hook into the slipknot. Ch 25 Ch Stitches with an I hook. You can use the H hook that will be used for the rest of the project. Going up a hook size on the starting chain can help prevent this part of the project from being too tightly stitched.

Row 1: Switch to your H hook.  Start by making 1 SC in the back bump of the second stitch from the hook, crochet 1 SC stitch in the back bump of each chain until you reach the end of the row, ch-1 and turn your work (24 stitches)

Rows 2-4: Continue using  the Color A yarn and crochet 1 SC in each stitch across the row, Ch-1 and turn your work on Rows 2-3 but not on Row 4 Fasten Off your work and turn your work. (24 stitches)

Rows 5-8: Switch to the Color B yarn and insert your hook into the last stitch you made in Row 4. Ch-1 and make a SC stitch to begin Row 5. SC crochet in every stitch across the row. Ch-1 and turn your work on Rows 5-7. When you reach the end of Row 8 Fasten Off and turn your work. (24 Stitches)

Row 9-10: Switch back to the Color A yarn  and insert you hook into the last stitch you made in Row 8. Ch-1 and make a SC stitch to begin Row 5. SC in every stitch across the row. Ch-1 and turn your work. (24 Stitches)

Row 11-14:  Make 4 SC crochet stitches, but do not finish the 4^th stitch. Insert your hook into the 4th stitch and pull up a loop. (see picture) With loops of Color A on the hook attach the Color C yarn to the hook using a slipknot. Complete the 4^th stitch by pulling the Color C yarn through the two loops on the hook.

Remember to hold the Color A yarn behind the stitch and include it into the stitch by crocheting over it so that it will be hidden from view on the back of your work. This will be carrying the yarn along with you to the next time you need to use it.

* Complete 4 SC using the Color C yarn and carrying the Color A yarn along.  When making the 4^th Color C Stitch stop when you have two loops on your hook and attach the Color A yarn to the using a slipknot. Complete 2 SC in the Color A yarn while carrying the Color C yarn along in each stitch. When you reach the second SC in the Color A yarn and have 2 loops on your hook switch to the Color C yarn and complete the 2cond stitch.

Repeat the instructions after the * 2 more times. When making the last Color C yarn in the row switch to the Color A and make 4 SC to the end of Row 10. When you Ch-1 make sure you Ch-1 around the Color C yarn in order to carry it up to next row. In Row 14, When you finish the last stitch in Color C and have switched to Color A Fasten Off  color B. Make the last for stitches in Color A and Ch-1 and turn your work. (24 Stitches)

Row 15-16: Complete 1 SC Crochet into each stitch across the row staying with the Color A yarn (24 Stitches)

Row 17-28: Repeat the Instructions in Rows 9-16 (24 Stitches)

Row 29-32: Switch to the Color B and insert your hook into the last stitch you made in Row 28. Ch-1 and make a SC stitch to begin Row 5. SC crochet in every stitch across the row. Ch-1 and turn your work on Rows 29-31. When you reach the end of Row 32 Fasten Off and turn your work. (24 Stitches)

Row 33-36: Switch to the Color A and Insert your hook into the first stich of the row. Make 1 SC crochet stitch in the first stitch and in each stitch across the row. When you complete Row 32 fasten off your work. (24 Stitches)

Weave in the ends.

Edging: If you would like a more finished look. Crochet 1 SC in each stitch around the edges of the Mug-Rug. make 3 SC in each corner. I prefer to use the corner stitches of the rows of the project.

The pattern for this project can be described as sets of 4.

Rows1-4: Red (4 rows)

Rows 5-8: Orange (4 rows)

Rows 9-10: Red (2 rows)

Rows 11-14: 4 Red,4 Blue, 2 Red, 4 Blue,2 Red, 4 Blue, 2 Red, 4 Blue,4 Red (4 Rows of Red with sets of 4 Blue in the middle

15-16: Red (2 rows)

17-20:Orange (2 rows)
21-22:Red (2 rows)
Rows 23-28: 4 Red,4 Blue, 2 Red, 4 Blue,2 Red, 4 Blue, 2 Red, 4 Blue,4 Red (4 Rows of Red with sets of 4 Blue in the middle)
Rows 29-32:Orange (4 Rows)
Rows 33-36 Red (4 Rows)

You can sell the final product of this pattern. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you want to use this pattern for teaching purposes, please reference my blog.